# ToMorrow Lab

Welcome to the ToMorrow Lab, any questions or concerns can be directed to Rich Mansfield at rmansfield\@creightonprep.org


# Calipers

Calipers are great for measuring anything(well less than about 6 inches) Though the video below shows TinkerCad, you can use them in any program.

{% file src="/files/L6OW8TypldUwTjzltVEI" %}

{% embed url="<https://files.gitbook.com/v0/b/gitbook-x-prod.appspot.com/o/spaces%2FTJiXw7nWbpims86FZHCL%2Fuploads%2FyQhrem6TloFFFLOpml4f%2FCaliperTinkerCad.webm?alt=media&token=3ff40643-eb17-47f5-8c76-e235ce3befa7>" %}


# 3d Printers

In the ToMorrow Lab we have a 4 different 3-D printer systems

<figure><img src="/files/52qB0k6I5GeVSxWKoJsM" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>


# Design for 3D printing

There are a lot of ways to design something to be 3D printed. However, you must have a 3D model (either you made, or found) to slice( how we tell the printer how to make each layer)


# TinkerCad

A simple option

<figure><img src="/files/fSEVpdPxV8kFrludnWhf" alt=""><figcaption><p>TinkerCad</p></figcaption></figure>

If you have not already used [TinkerCad](https://www.tinkercad.com/) then I would begin here. It is a simple online 3D modeling program available for free. The basic concept being you form shapes and holes to cut shapes. You can stick shapes and holes together to make new shapes. Exports are available as STL (for 3D printing) and SVG (Usable for the Laser cutter)

{% embed url="<https://ibles-content.tinkercad.com/static/tinkercad/marketing/3d/place.mp4>" %}
Place Shapes
{% endembed %}

{% embed url="<https://ibles-content.tinkercad.com/static/tinkercad/marketing/3d/adjust.mp4>" %}
Adjust shapes
{% endembed %}

{% embed url="<https://ibles-content.tinkercad.com/static/tinkercad/marketing/3d/combine-2.mp4>" %}
Combine!
{% endembed %}

### You can learn how to use TinkerCad [here](https://www.tinkercad.com/learn)

<details>

<summary>Advantages</summary>

#### Easy start up

#### Exports for the 3D printer and the Laser

#### Works well with Fusion 360

</details>

<details>

<summary>Disadvantages</summary>

#### Limited size( there is a max size)

#### Limited detail

#### Dimensions can be tricky

#### Next to impossible to use on an IPad

</details>


# Shapr3D

Shapr3D is a CAD(Computer Aided Design) program which is available on Computers and iPads. When used with an iPad it is necessary to use a Stylus or Apple Pencil. YOU CAN NOT JUST USE YOUR FINGER.

{% embed url="<https://assets-global.website-files.com/5fcde6f56fdac5414b34eeb3/606ef2f0ab767d437ad97bc1_LearnThumbnail-ModelingBasics%20(1).png>" %}

Shapr3D has a educational account license (free access) you will want to complete the form to get free access. [HERE](https://account.shapr3d.com/edu?source=signin)

### Learn more about Shapr3D[ here](https://www.shapr3d.com/learn/tutorials)

<details>

<summary>Advantages</summary>

#### Much more detailed than TinkerCad

#### Works well with Pencil

#### Can be used on Computer and Ipad

#### Export STL, DXF

</details>

<details>

<summary>Disadvantages</summary>

#### I cant find my Ipad pencil, it wont work

#### No CAM (Computer Aided Machining) Support

</details>


# Fusion 360

Fusion 360 is a professional level CAD/CAM program with many, many add-ons. Out of the options listed here it is the most robust. You can use Fusion online or as a program.

{% embed url="<https://i0.wp.com/www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Gif-Selecting-CAM-Toolpath.gif?ssl=1>" %}

#### You need to sign up for an education account [HERE](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education)

#### Fusion also has great resources for learning how to use it found [HERE](https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/courses/)

<details>

<summary>Advantages</summary>

Professional level CAD program

Opens up lots of possibilities

Able to export not only STL, DXF, SVG, but also CNC tool paths and G-Code (Computer Version only)

Able to intergrate 3D models from vendors

</details>

<details>

<summary>Disadvantages</summary>

Requires a Computer for best results

Can get confusing or frustrating

</details>


# OnShape

OnShape is an online CAD Program

Much like Fusion and Shapr3d you need to make an educational account [HERE](https://www.onshape.com/en/education/sign-up) it is pretty easy to do and allows you full access to all the services. Onshape will work on a computer or iPad.  It is all online which has advantages and disadvantages&#x20;

<details>

<summary>Advantages</summary>

You can access your CAD from anywhere

Easy to share CAD with team-mates

</details>

<details>

<summary>Disadvantages</summary>

Lack of CAM for the lab

complex models can lag

</details>


# Thingiverse and other online resources for STL's

Not usually the best option!

While it seems like someone has done the job for you already, be careful. Look for STL files which show actual pictures of printed attempts. If the only images availible are from renders, there is a good chance it will not work. Additionally, if you are trying to print a specific size object you will still need to edit the STL before attempting to slice it.&#x20;

{% embed url="<https://www.thingiverse.com/>" %}

{% embed url="<https://www.printables.com/en/model>" %}


# Prusa

The 4 black and orange printers in the lab are Prusa Printers

[Prusa](https://www.prusa3d.com/) is a Czech company who makes great inexpensive printers. We have [2 mini](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mini-semi-assembled-3d-printer-4/)'s, [1 MK3+](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer-3/), and [1MK3+ MMU(multi-material)](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mmu2s-to-mmu3-upgrade/). These are great all around printers which in the lab print PLA (hard plastic) and TPU(flexible plastic) filament.&#x20;

As discussed in [Design for 3D printing](/3d-printers/design-for-3d-printing) all 3D prints start as a 3D model (STL or 3MF file) which is then processed in software (slicer software) into slices and assinged motor values to create each shape of each layer. The computer code made by a slicer to send to a 3D printer is called G-Code.&#x20;

## Steps to print

1. Create or find a 3D model&#x20;
2. open Prusa slicer(if unavailable on lab computer let Mr.Mansfield know or look for a different computer)
3. insure the correct settings for machines and filament's

<figure><img src="/files/U6xbdB9Ds8CNksmkRDL7" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

5. Make sure your Print settings are set to the correct printer (mini, MK3+ or MMU) and your filament is set to the correct material (PLA or TPU/FLEX)

<figure><img src="/files/OFYxfIzbKKfDUSldbXbO" alt=""><figcaption><p>Check your settings</p></figcaption></figure>

6. Now add your STL or 3MF model via File->Import->Import STL... Make sure you import you file as the correct units (inches or mm)&#x20;

<figure><img src="/files/JZDrObbidPnJq2wGgps8" alt=""><figcaption><p>Import your model</p></figcaption></figure>

<figure><img src="/files/QLzwuF2vlD18TgOrMMgw" alt=""><figcaption><p>Ta-Da!</p></figcaption></figure>

7. Now select the detail level- the higher the detail the longer the print will take. I normally will leave this at the default "Quality" unless I need to change it

<figure><img src="/files/ETTSwYjZqPCn97LYzUFC" alt="" width="563"><figcaption><p>Select your quality/resolution</p></figcaption></figure>

8. Choose if you want supports or not. You have to consider overhangs. For best results I often select supports everywhere, however there are good cases for other support strategies or no support

<figure><img src="/files/QJpAWsPhTdk71ID3yyi4" alt=""><figcaption><p>Supports?</p></figcaption></figure>

9. Now it is time to Slice! this will convert the model to layers and generate G-code to follow those slices. There are tons more settings you can play around with, but for the most part this should print. If you are interested in more advanced settings explore them!&#x20;

10\. we have to get it to the printer. There are two ways to achieve this: physically and over the internet. The simplest way in the lab is to use Prusa Connect. Simply login to Prusa connect using :

{% hint style="success" %}
&#x20;<tomorrowlabs@creghtonprep.org> and Tomorrow1 as the password
{% endhint %}

<figure><img src="/files/Bsr27ihA3Zh6YjVKbX1y" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

<figure><img src="/files/MoxTfI71oCjadTKipbri" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

To physically get your G-code to a printer you will need a USB drive for the Mini's or a SD card for the MK3+ or MMU. Just export the G-code and save to the storage media.&#x20;

To share your G-code via the internet we will use [Octoprin](https://octoprint.org/)t. A [Raspberry Pi](https://www.raspberrypi.org/) ( a credit card sized computer) is plugged into the printer, we can send our G-code to the Raspberry Pi and it will control the printer!  Octoprint is on the Rpi plugged into the 3D printer, that little computer makes a server which we will access by typing the IP address listed in front of the 3D printer. This can only be done if you are in the lab and connected to the ToMorrow Labs wifi network.&#x20;


# Stratasys

The Stratasys is a large high quality 3D printer. It works really well, and is easy to use.

You need to use a PC in the lab, and it needs to have a program called GrabCAD installed on it

<figure><img src="/files/ygpIEdlPdsgHCwdhGXmZ" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Then you have to login&#x20;

<figure><img src="/files/HVOATZXk468WiqcuUDBM" alt=""><figcaption><p>tomorrowlabs@creightonprep.org   GoPrep!</p></figcaption></figure>

The login is: <tomorrowlabs@creightonprep.org>  Password: GoPrep!

## Then you need to connect to the printers IP address: 192.168.1.32 This will insure you have the correct layout and filiment selected (it does it automatically if you are connected to the printer)

Then you need to add your STL model(s)

<figure><img src="/files/5URyNY3Sx3t0qkfoiXpc" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

## Move your print using the orient, scale, and arrange tools on the tool bar

<figure><img src="/files/zxKdxMh7izbPrjCydPta" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

When done hit print- head to the Stratasys and follow the on screen instructions

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/10rbDfzG9zMQ9HlQdBbtMGgiaactJ4oUg/view>" %}


# Form Labs

Form Labs is a Resin Printer in the lab. It uses a liquid resin which is photo-reactive and lasers to create very finely detailed 3D prints.

### How it works in a nutshell

The bottom of the printer is filled with a photoreactive resin. A build platform is lowered until it almost touches the bottom of the tray. An intense light is shown in specific areas to create a layer (pew pew pew). The tray then raises, a wiper levels the resin and then the proces is repeated, 100s of times.&#x20;

### To start a print, you first need a 3D model

Like all 3D printers you need a model, and the model will get sliced and then printed out, however unlike a normal 3D print, we will not generate gcode


# PreForm Software

The slicing software for the Form lab printer is called PreForm.

### To Begin:

The first step, much like all 3d printers is to create or find a STL or other 3D model. You can reference [Design for 3D printing](/3d-printers/design-for-3d-printing) for more information.&#x20;

### Open PreForm:

Hopefully it is installed on the computer you are using, if not speak to Mr. Mansfield. ![](/files/qtdARKw0LzmB4HsFerdw)

### Login

The generic login is:

<tomorrowlabs@creightonprep.org>

Password is:

GoPrep

### Select Printer

Selecting the printer from the start will make everything go smoother. The software will recognize the resin in the printer and slice for the specfic settings. ![](/files/qFNftOnfyBe2BDS980mv)

our current Form3L is called PrudentBunyip&#x20;

### Select Material

The material will already be selected when you select the printer. The machine knows what resin is already in the machine

. ![](/files/317MTuBIBe4ymq3r9J75)

### Add a model

You should have noticed that your workspace should resemble the layout of the actual machine

![](/files/dr3BVsq4baTCUjTTnu22)

From the menu select&#x20;

**File --> Open**

![](/files/ohJ14GqaoQTlulKbXvUn)

select your file (I am on a mac, so your dialoge box may appear different)

&#x20;![](/files/5tu8zERPQMIFA02W1adD)

Your 3D object should appear on the bed ![](/files/p2P9rtH4ED3Q3zpYH75E)

### Magic wand time

For the most part I use the magic wand for all my prints. You need supports and the print needs to be oriented to allow for dripping. The magic wand takes care of all of this for you!

![](/files/BTsCF6EtJ276fpfFoTgJ)

![](/files/op2paycwDNQSitVcABKK)

After the Magic wand

![](/files/mbFS2O1QFsK7rKzrpqIy)

### Ready to print

after you select the one click print it will want to send it immediatly to the printer. Once sent you need to follow the  directions on the machine to start the process of printing.


# Resin rinse

After your print is done, it is still covered in a film of resin, we need to remove the resin in a Alcohol bath.

![](/files/6QNmxucwMurN3KV6GqNG)

### It is pretty easy

you place the tray above the basket, slowly work your pieces off the tray until they drop. Then push start. The basket will lower into the Alcohol bath and get agitated. Once the cycle is over, the basket will raise. On to [Curing](/3d-printers/form-labs/curing)


# Curing

Though our Resin cured in the printing process, it is not entirely cured yet

### Be sure you have rinsed your print

### Remove any supports you no longer want

The plastic is soft right now, which makes cutting off supports and sanding much easier at this stage.

### Put your piece in the Form Cure L

![](/files/gzZHCQtQ6V4RMG5TQYrR)

It looks like a microwave, but it is going to bombard the print with UV light to finish curing any resin. Wait until the cycle is done; and then you are too!


# Laser cutters

We have 2 different Laser cutters at Prep, an Epilog 60 Watt Fusion 36, and a United Laser Systems (ULS) 50 Watt Laser. To use either laser you need a vector based file to print.

{% hint style="info" %}
check the notes
{% endhint %}


# Vector Graphics

You need vector based drawings to create paths for many machines in the lab. Laser cutter, CNC machines, Waser water jet, and others


# Adobe Illustrator

Adobe Illustrator is the main tool we will use to create vector graphics in the ToMorrow Lab

{% hint style="info" %}
If you need access to Adobe products contact Mr. Mansfield
{% endhint %}

Adobe Illustrator is a vector based art program. Vector based art uses math to make shapes rather than pixels. Not only does using math to create shapes make it easy change the size and shape without distortion, but it makes it much easier to calculate paths for machines to follow.&#x20;

## iPad

You can access the iPad app via the Adobe Creative Cloud app. You must have a school adobe account to use Illustrator. Once you have logged into Adobe Creative Cloud app and downloaded Illustrator you should complete the 5 short tutorials.&#x20;

## Computer

You can also access Illustrator on a PC or Mac. The software needs to be installed, if in the lab it may already be installed, if not speak to Mr. Mansfield. If you have access to Illustrator on the iPad and want to use Illustrator at home on your own computer you can install it.&#x20;

## Design for the laser

Once you have completed the tutorials this should make sense. Remember we are leveraging the math of vector cuts to give us paths and coordinates. Any process where you want the laser to follow path, a cut or engraving, will be done using the stroke. Both lasers only recognize a stroke intended to be used as path based on its stroke weight. Specifically laser cutter software is looking for a hairline stroke weight of 0.001-0.028 as a way to know the intent of the line is to be followed. Any other stroke weight, or Fill will be regarded as Raster(pixel based) art and will be etched(each pixel will be burned to create an image). Additionally stroke color is used to separate cuts from engravings, however you could use varied stroke weights, but it would get confusing.

<details>

<summary>Epilog Design Parameters</summary>

Cut- any color stroke weight of 0.001&#x20;

Engrave-any color stroke weight of 0.001

Etch- any other stroke, fill, image (there are more advanced ways to handle some etching)

#### You will set how strong the laser is in the Epilog software, which will determine if it cuts through or not

</details>

<details>

<summary>United Laser System Parameters</summary>

Cut- Stroke weight of 0.001 **AND** ff0000(pure RGB red)

Engrave- Stroke weight of 0.001 **AND** 0000ff(pure RGB blue)

Etch- any other stroke, fill, image (there are more advanced ways to handle some etching)

</details>


# CAD programs

You can use the programs you use to make 3D models to make drawings called DXF.

TinkerCad, Shapr3D, Onshape, and Fusion 360 are all able to create a file called a DXF. We can either import DXF's into Illustrator(though there are sometimes issues) or print the DXF directly from the laser software.&#x20;


# Epilog

Epilog 60Watt 24x36 bed

The Epilog Fusion 36 is our newest laser cutter. INSERT IMAGE

### From Illustrator on PC connected to Epilog Laser

{% hint style="info" %}
If you need access to the Tomorrow Lab shared drive speak to Mr. Mansfield
{% endhint %}

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g1ii49DSiRk_DnbuvdsSfFufxuHo7Bpm/view?usp=sharing>" %}

1. Open your file, hopefully you have saved it on the ToMorrow Lab shared drive
2. Ensure your setting for Stroke and Stroke Weight are correct (color and 0.001)
3. Print (the laser is set up like a printer in Illustrator) File->Print
4. Ensure the Printer in the Dialogue box is Epilog&#x20;
5. Ensure the Print is starting in the origin
6. Select Print in the Dialogue box
7. The Epilog software will open
8. Move your art over the material you intend to use (wood, plastic, paper)&#x20;
9. On the right hand side select your art, if you have multiple processes they will be here Vector or Raster. If you need to separate vectors or rasters you can do it here by color.
10. Select the preset material cut settings by clicking the file folder with a down arrow
11. You may need to tune the settings for your particular material
12. Push the Print button when finished.&#x20;
13. The Job will now appear on the screen of the Laser
14. navigate the head of the laser over your material.&#x20;
15. Insert the rod into the head of the laser and raise or lower the bed until you are at the optimum focal distance&#x20;
16. Insure the Exhaust and Compressed air are on and push the Play button.&#x20;
17. If there is a fire in the laser cutter stop the job and compressed air, but leave the exhaust on and lid shut.
18. Remove your cut!


# ULS

50 Watt 32x18 bed

The ULS Laser is older, however it still works well. The main difference is in the design of a file to cut, engrave or etch. The ULS laser looks for not only a hairline (stroke weight of 0.001-0.030) and a specific RGB Color of Stroke weight.&#x20;

<figure><img src="/files/faPGx1vq61XXK6hxxz5Y" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

<figure><img src="/files/nnQjrvSWNoJJJt29ehtL" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

<figure><img src="/files/DMnWm9daYIJ8VBP6IYhS" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>


# CNC

We have various CNC equipment


# EZ router

48x96 router (the big green one)

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b4lI6Wpoqt-404ArmSKu9x-gqmmEmdZm/view?usp=drive_link>" %}


# Using VCarve


# Using Fusion

If you learned Fusion 360 it is really pretty easy to make Gcode for the router(or mill, wazer, lathe, 3d printers, and laser cutter)

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Lby-c5Ix7j-hWNcs6vVtu-KcUyo2SUbh/view?usp=drive_link>" %}

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FJZb6C1mqX5MTi8Kw3V16qJWMwDXcHi5/view?usp=drive_link>" %}


# Bantam CNC


# Intelitek Mill


# Wazer Water Jet

Use high pressure water and sand to cut just about anything

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X7mPWgu_6o2PXV9UpVbPkFL7ZXBlWDLX/view?usp=drive_link>" %}


# CNC Lathe


# Wood Shop


# Bandsaw

The bandsaw is the most frequently used tool in the wood shop.

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gFH928BENF7OgPI1lBZSMVoYitBhkOAb/view?usp=drive_link>" %}
A how to video
{% endembed %}

* [x] Wear safety glasses
* [x] Do not touch the blade
* [x] Do not try to cut to tight of a curve without relief cuts
* [x] Do not cut wet paint or glue
* [ ] Do not cut metal with out permission
*


# Drill press

The Drill press is a very versatile tool

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gVc13M5RPNIP84ZdSDtS-nVZDLW2M6KI/view?usp=drive_link>" %}
Drilling
{% endembed %}

* [ ] Do wear saftey glasses
* [ ] Do return the chuck key to its holder
* [ ] Do release the bed clamp before raising or lowering
* [ ] Do clamp wood


# Mitre saw

Sometimes improperly called a chop saw. This tool is good for cutting longer pieces and making angles

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/15HVESToIh_g5nSrbhokG2SWnmK9RW350/view?usp=drive_link>" %}
cut the angles
{% endembed %}

* [ ] Do wear safety glasses
* [ ] If cutting a wide piece start "out" and push the blade in
* [ ] Do keep a hand on the work
* [ ] Do ask permission to compound mitre


# Table saw

A very useful tool

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vLBFaHDcHdRfXoZ_tv5P1edLpDvuzEGi/view?usp=drive_link>" %}
fun
{% endembed %}

* [ ] Do wear safety glasses
* [ ] Do insure no one is behind you
* [ ] Do ask permission to use the table saw
* [ ] Only use the fence with long sides
* [ ] Never use the fence and the mitre gauge together

<figure><img src="/files/NVwHo4VNbGJxUL5qYgUG" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>


# Wood Lathe

This tool is able to make round objects

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uRrb3rvJLlms1eCRi4PrLE86WLWl8Yan/view?usp=drive_link>" %}

* [ ] Do wear safety glasses
* [ ] Do practice prior to starting a project


# Handsaws

Hand saws are great

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/117k3qAc1AUs7IB_yrYuIsZw1uIzkwjjX/view?usp=drive_link>" %}


# JigSaw

The jigsaw is wonderful

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qqsq4VL1MglendOxjx89LoHDORApoBS_/view?usp=drive_link>" %}

* [ ] Do wear safety glasses
* [ ] Do be aware of where the exiting blade is going
* [ ] Do clamp work&#x20;


# Sanders

Power sanders save a lot of time

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xGx9iJy0-ptxV0Vqyd22WrKZhz2Z5JK3/view?usp=drive_link>" %}
make it smooth
{% endembed %}

* [ ] Do wear safety glasses
* [ ] Do NOT wear gloves


# Metal shop


# Horizontal Bandsaw


# Mini Mill


# Brake, Roller,Shear


# TIG welder


# Vinyl Cutter

The vinyl cutter will let you make stickers and iron ons.

{% embed url="<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p7EXflEy413OX5zZhEJwEo_93ateoTV1/view?usp=drive_link>" %}